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Por Daniel Zepeda
El idioma de la primavera y el otoño no se descodifican únicamente con flores, colores altamente saturados o su contrario de negros y grises. Pues éstas más allá del cliché estacional, ofrecen una gama inmensa para reinventarte en tu camino por la sobrevivencia ante el bochorno del cenit y los fuertes vientos que te recuerdan las horas que pasaste peinándote por la mañana.
ACNE STUDIOS
Sin ser de primavera pero con urgencia para encabezar el vibe de esta lista, comenzamos con el pre-Fall 2017 de Acne Studios. Bobby Gillespie como protagonista del lookbook de la colección de la marca sueca, al lado de Angelica Erthal, la colección hace una clara y concreta referencia hacia la escena del rock de los años setentas. Compuesta por colores cálidos y diferentes texturas, en la que cada prenda nos interpreta una narrativa única que permite incorporarla a cualquiera de nuestros armarios.
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OPENING CEREMONY
Basándose en fotografías del siglo XIX de Ellis Island, donde individuos de diversos orígenes cruzaron caminos, Justin Peck –coreógrafo del New york City Ballet– y Humberto Leon unieron fuerzas para diseñar la colección de primavera para Opening Ceremony, en la cual interpretan la reflexión sobre la serendipiaentre la conexión dos entes. Mundanamente, Peck y Leon, hacen referencia a esos momentos de amor a primera vista con un extraño al caminar por la calle. De manera idílica, transportando esos sentimientos y fugacidad por medio de siluetas sueltas, franjas y macramé bordado. Dejando claro que al igual que el sueño americano, las fantasías colectivas inspiran y conectan a través de culturas.
Sin embargo, no todo se trata de conceptos románticos dentro de la colección de OC, pues en ésta incluyeron la mini colección-cápsula “Action”, la cual está llena de básicos como sudaderas y t-shits que están inspiradas en la rica y contemplativa puntuación de The Times Are Racing. Compuesto por el músico electrónico Dan Deacon, la música es la meditación personal de Deacon sobre la identidad americana. La cápsula de sudaderas con capucha, tees y tanks ofrece la habilidad de lenguaje-DEFY, FIGHT, PROTEST, ACT, UNITE y CHANGE- y encarna lo que significa el nuevo ser americano.
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![16-opening-ceremony-spring-2017.jpg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/581a34e7e4fcb5b1148dc4f3/1493245363281-P7HBTCZ8TKZRSQSPDOMZ/ke17ZwdGBToddI8pDm48kGeNtXjnSVE0FC98ofHjoQx7gQa3H78H3Y0txjaiv_0fDoOvxcdMmMKkDsyUqMSsMWxHk725yiiHCCLfrh8O1z5QPOohDIaIeljMHgDF5CVlOqpeNLcJ80NK65_fV7S1UVURxIstYj4VcQ3u4G8psS8p19-2HRX2fy4mVTF2-S9JlPRhrjbf-ufqwsSWgrw9rg/16-opening-ceremony-spring-2017.jpg)
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![13-opening-ceremony-spring-2017.jpg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/581a34e7e4fcb5b1148dc4f3/1493245392835-N2T6UGISPCYP9KQEQU87/ke17ZwdGBToddI8pDm48kGeNtXjnSVE0FC98ofHjoQx7gQa3H78H3Y0txjaiv_0fDoOvxcdMmMKkDsyUqMSsMWxHk725yiiHCCLfrh8O1z5QPOohDIaIeljMHgDF5CVlOqpeNLcJ80NK65_fV7S1UVURxIstYj4VcQ3u4G8psS8p19-2HRX2fy4mVTF2-S9JlPRhrjbf-ufqwsSWgrw9rg/13-opening-ceremony-spring-2017.jpg)
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![11-opening-ceremony-spring-2017.jpg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/581a34e7e4fcb5b1148dc4f3/1493245406591-OGO50RO4P2M1H95SQP98/ke17ZwdGBToddI8pDm48kGeNtXjnSVE0FC98ofHjoQx7gQa3H78H3Y0txjaiv_0fDoOvxcdMmMKkDsyUqMSsMWxHk725yiiHCCLfrh8O1z5QPOohDIaIeljMHgDF5CVlOqpeNLcJ80NK65_fV7S1UVURxIstYj4VcQ3u4G8psS8p19-2HRX2fy4mVTF2-S9JlPRhrjbf-ufqwsSWgrw9rg/11-opening-ceremony-spring-2017.jpg)
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MARCO DE VINCENZO
Reencarnando esa frase de ‘my squad is better than yours’, el lookbook de Marco De Vincenzo nos remite a esa necesidad de pertenencia por el aura de su imagen. Esto logrado una re-interpretación del daywear por medio de una irrefutable paleta de colores y mezcla de texturas que hacen armonía al unísono de las siluetas utilizadas. La colección se encuentra compuesta de camisas de popelina con costuras escondidas, pantalones con pliegues estratégicamente colocados, jerseys brillantes, chaquetas oversize sin perder el ladylike y vestidos pinafore con bolsillos en colores de contraste. Haciendo en conjunto un himno al “better than your faves” en los looks de oficina.
![f1c4bfd24affe10c97df67645d5233a4-587cf835531cd.jpeg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/581a34e7e4fcb5b1148dc4f3/1493245120688-SHASW8FF5MV7CH8VRPYW/ke17ZwdGBToddI8pDm48kFn01b69qibFV6p4ATINgYx7gQa3H78H3Y0txjaiv_0fDoOvxcdMmMKkDsyUqMSsMWxHk725yiiHCCLfrh8O1z5QHyNOqBUUEtDDsRWrJLTmaHJ0CCIp0h94CjFWATtzumDyWwG6cTlYaiji1mbxg2_decyTpAb-46CnvkjVgn6l/f1c4bfd24affe10c97df67645d5233a4-587cf835531cd.jpeg)
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WEIMAR YOUTHS
La marca mexicana resultante del contra flujo monótono del diario vestir, creada por Antonio Zaragoza presenta su nueva colección. La cual está basada en una visión sobre un nuevo universo. La idea conceptual de sus prendas surgió mediante una larga charla entablada con uno de sus amigos, J. Mauricio Orozco, sobre su nuevo libro titulado “Hipótesis Del Espíritu Sensual”, el cual habla sobre el fin del universo. Éste narra un universo enfocado en nuevas reglas, todas basadas en el amor individual.
Cada prenda se centra en una de sus piezas elementales de construcción, obteniendo como resultado un juego asimétrico en los tamaños y perspectivas. Éstas acompañadas de fragmentos de poemas, provenientes del libro de Orozco, que fueron estampados y yuxtapuestos con algunas pinturas de Ed Ruscha. Así mismo, uno de los elementos clave para la colección fue la elección de textiles, en la cual, inspirado por sus vacaciones de verano en el norte de África, decidió que fueran telas de interacción diaria, como los felpados de algodón y tejidos de punto que encontramos en toallones y sábanas. Si pareciera que podrían ser prendas comunes, la composición estructural que Momo ha dado en esta colección, reivindica el valor estético y nos acerca al imaginario funcional de los elementos constructivos.
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